DJERBA

desert scene in Djerba, courtesy, galileo3000.si

The island of Djerba is, at 198 square miles, the largest island of North Africa, located in the Gulf of Gabès, and is politically, a part of Arab-occupied Tunisia. It is famous as the filming location of Star Wars which took place in and around the port of Ajim in the southwest corner of the island. Tourists can visit buildings featured in the original movie, including Obi-Wan Kenobi's house and the Mos Eisley cantina. The island is also famous for its ancient Jewish community and its indigenous inhabitants, the Amazigh (Berbers). Out of a total population of over 163,000, 15,000 belong to this indigenous community.

In ancient times, the Djerba Amazigh would often be influenced by the neighboring peoples from across the Mediterranean as well as the occupying empires that came and went throughout this period. Legend has it that Djerba was the island of the lotus-eaters where Odysseus was stranded on his voyage through the Mediterranean. The island, which was called Meninx until the third century AD, included three principal towns: one, known today as Būrgū, is found near Midoun in the center of the island; another, on the southeastern coast, which is as yet, unidentified, was a major producer of priceless murex dye, and is cited by Pliny the Elder as second only to Tyre in this regard; and the third was the ancient Haribus. The island was densely inhabited in the Roman and Byzantine periods, and probably imported much of the grain consumed by its inhabitants.

During the Middle Ages, Djerba was invaded and occupied by Arabs who followed the Ibadi form of Islam. They had a tremendous impact on the indigenous inhabitants who eventually became followers of this form of Islam. But since then, a slow process of Arabization set in forcing them to fight for their own cultural identity and rights. But in spite of this, there were also periods when the island came under indigenous rule, such as during the period of the Zirid dynasty of Sanhaja Berbers and that of the Hafsids who were Sunni Muslim Berbers. After the Hafsids expelled a garrison of Spanish soldiers from the island at the end of the 14^th century, they built the Borj el Kebir Castle to the north of the town of Houmt Souk over the ruins of the ancient Roman city of Griba. In 1450, the castle was extended. In 1574, the Hafsids were overthrown by the Ottoman Turks and they, in turn, were overthrown by the French in the 19^th century.  

After the French left Tunisia and Djerba in 1956, the process of Arabization resumed and so has the fight for Amazigh rights. The Amazigh have only been partially successful though. In general, many have lost aspects of their traditional identity. The Djerba Berber language called chilha, a language mainly derived from the ancient Zenata Berbers, is only spoken by some in the local villages, including Tlat, Ajim, Sedriane, Azdyuch, and Mahboubine. But only those in Sedouikech have learned to write it and the viability of chilha in the villages of Tlat and Ajim is tenuous with each passing generation. Only the elderly in these and other villages can speak it. They have ceased teaching their children due to its “difficulty”. Nowadays, the Djerba Amazigh speak Arabic and French and a minority learn other languages including English. Their clothing has also changed due to integration with the Arabs with many now wearing European-style clothing. In addition, radio, television, and the internet have taken hold of the younger generation.

On the other hand, the Amazigh of Guellala, Ouirsighen, and a minority of those from Sedouikech, have held on to their Amazigh identity and are proud of it. The Amazigh in Sedouikech work in commerce and especially in agriculture, producing quantities of olive oil. The inhabitants of Ouirsighen are considered well off with some living abroad, often in Europe, and sending back money to their families. Those of Guellala are well-known for their pottery, a profession that has been passed down from generation to generation. The town used to be home to hundreds of potters, but today only a handful can be seen busy at work in their workshops. With the passing of time, evolving material needs, and difficulty of the profession, the youth have begun to search for work in industrial and commercial locations. The town’s indigenous culture seemed on the verge of being forgotten. In response, the Guellala Museum was established on a hill overlooking the town as a depository of “Berberana”. The permanent exhibition includes a large collection of traditional tools and garments and everyday objects used in the past by the islanders. Also on display are life-size figures enacting scenes of everyday life like fishing, weaving and olive oil making, and also wedding ceremonies.

However, the interactions between men and women more closely follow the Arabian Bedouin tradition that came with their invasion and occupation of the area. As a result, men and women do not mix socially, and they continue to wear their traditional clothing.

There is a strong and close relationship between the island’s Amazigh and Jews. In the season of Jewish pilgrimage in Djerba the Amazigh ensure their safety. The Jews, for their part, consider the Amazigh trustworthy in commerce and business dealings.

A major geographical feature of the island is the Djerba Bin El Ouedian wetland and habitat for migratory birds. On November 7, 2007 the wetland was included on the list of Ramsar sites under the Ramsar Convention, due to its importance as a bird refuge.